HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOME!
So soon. Leaving at 7 this evening for the airport, and spending a lot of time chilling there until our flight leaves at 1:30. Delhi & India is very good at airport security, so we shouldn't have any problems, but if anybody feels like thinking about me at that time, a little good juju couldn't hurt. And I would appreciate it. Not really nervous, but there is plenty of potential to be. I just want to get home. Can't wait for that airplane!
I'll send out a quick message when I get home, just to let y'all know I'm safe.
loff loff,
Anna
Saturday, December 6, 2008
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
So....long time since I've written.
Not a whole lot let to say--I'm coming home in four days! I can hardly believe it. I certainly has flown by, but also moved slowly at times. I am very ready to come home. It's not that I don't like it here anymore, it's just been a really long time. AND IT'S CHRISTMASY AT HOME! So excited.
Sooooo...that's all for now. Things are going OK here in Delhi, although there was an anonymous email threat about attacking the airports, which kind of has everyone on edge. But they've increased security, and there's not really a whole lot else we can do, so I'm doing my best not to worry about it. I'm going home. That's all that I can really think about. I will ask for anyone who believes that it can do anything
Finished with final paper, and my presentation is on Thursday. Other than that, only hanging out and attempting to fit my massive amounts of purchases into my three bags. I am going to look really funny. I should probably have someone take a picture.
HOME!
Thursday, November 27, 2008
Thank you.
just a quick message:
Yesterday I arrived in Delhi safely in the morning, found a hotel, and had a lovely day reuniting with people.
Today we found out that at 10 PM last night there was a full-scale terrorist attack on Mumbai, which is still occurring. There are a number of hostages being held at several hotels that are under siege, there was open fire at a railway station, one apartment building was raided, and a gas station blown up. Last I heard. Over a hundred people have been killed, including India's three best police officers, who were the head of the anti-terrorist force. There has been open fire and negotiations since 10 PM last night. It's 9/11, India-style. It's also terrifying.
That being said, we are all safe and OK here in Delhi. Not everyone is back from their ISP, but no one was near Mumbai and everyone is fine. They are moving all of us who are here into the Ashram early, which is good and bad. I don't really mind, although I kind of liked my hotel. Those of us who are back had a decent (though by no means perfect) thanksgiving lunch at the program center. They couldn't get a hold of a turkey, but we had really yummy mashed potatoes, apple cider, and cranberry sauce, plus a random paneer tikka. It was nice, and while I wish I could be at home celebrating the holiday, under the circumstances it was good. We all have a lot to be thankful for, and the fact that a lot of people are still being held hostage at gun point puts a big damper on things, but it also made us enjoy our safety and time together a lot. It's a very sad time, that hopefully will not get too much worse.
I wish there was a way to convey what a big deal it is, since we've already had these few small bombings. It's just...it is India's 9/11. It is a very accurate comparason, at least at this point. I guess the fact that the smaller bombings barely made news, while most people in the US and Europe heard about this before I did means something. I can't tell you how much it means that I have gotten messages from all over the US, England, Italy, and several other countries all showing their concern. I really appreciate it, and I love you all so much. I hope that those of you who celebrate it have a good Thanksgiving, because, as we are reminded again and again, we have an awful lot to be thankful for.
Love.
Yesterday I arrived in Delhi safely in the morning, found a hotel, and had a lovely day reuniting with people.
Today we found out that at 10 PM last night there was a full-scale terrorist attack on Mumbai, which is still occurring. There are a number of hostages being held at several hotels that are under siege, there was open fire at a railway station, one apartment building was raided, and a gas station blown up. Last I heard. Over a hundred people have been killed, including India's three best police officers, who were the head of the anti-terrorist force. There has been open fire and negotiations since 10 PM last night. It's 9/11, India-style. It's also terrifying.
That being said, we are all safe and OK here in Delhi. Not everyone is back from their ISP, but no one was near Mumbai and everyone is fine. They are moving all of us who are here into the Ashram early, which is good and bad. I don't really mind, although I kind of liked my hotel. Those of us who are back had a decent (though by no means perfect) thanksgiving lunch at the program center. They couldn't get a hold of a turkey, but we had really yummy mashed potatoes, apple cider, and cranberry sauce, plus a random paneer tikka. It was nice, and while I wish I could be at home celebrating the holiday, under the circumstances it was good. We all have a lot to be thankful for, and the fact that a lot of people are still being held hostage at gun point puts a big damper on things, but it also made us enjoy our safety and time together a lot. It's a very sad time, that hopefully will not get too much worse.
I wish there was a way to convey what a big deal it is, since we've already had these few small bombings. It's just...it is India's 9/11. It is a very accurate comparason, at least at this point. I guess the fact that the smaller bombings barely made news, while most people in the US and Europe heard about this before I did means something. I can't tell you how much it means that I have gotten messages from all over the US, England, Italy, and several other countries all showing their concern. I really appreciate it, and I love you all so much. I hope that those of you who celebrate it have a good Thanksgiving, because, as we are reminded again and again, we have an awful lot to be thankful for.
Love.
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
"Hey, you look like a cool, refreshing glass of water...and I'm the thirstiest man in this town,"
Yes, somebody actually said that to me. I don't know what response they were hoping for, but I just laughed. After I got back to my room.
Sad news. I read a headline today about how five girls have been murdered in the last month by male members of their families, because they were going off to meet their 'unsuitable' boy friends. They are called 'honor killings', because the girls were going to stain their family's names by visiting with these unapproved boys. It's nice to know family means so much in this country.
I love my rickshaw wallah. Yesterday I told him it was my last day, and said goodbye. Today, as I was walking to the internet place, he pulled up next to me and told me to get in. I said I was just going a few blocks, I didn't need a ride. He said, smiling, 'no money, no money, just get in'. So I did, and he gave me a free ride to the internet place. So sweet. It's really nice when you meet the good people here. I'll miss him.
This afternoon I am heading over to the studio to say some last goodbyes and pick up my batiks. Very sad. The I'll go to my regular internet place, take a picture, kill some time, and say goodbye. Then I'll go to the bakery, and get some almond pie for the road! Then I'll go to Anna Restaurant, get an early dinner, take some pictures, and say goodbye. Then back to the hotel, finish packing (soooooo much stuff!) pay my bills, take some pictures, and say goodbye. Then it's off to the trainstation, for my oh so very long sleeper train ride, and I'm back in Delhi! Woo woo!
A few nights ago I went to the movie, Octopussy, and the restaurant. Oh James Bond, you are a silly man. It was a fun way to spend the evening though, and I had the most magnificent honey lassi ever.
So many weddings. So many. I saw one go by that had six grooms in one procession. Another time I saw three diferent ones in a row. It is definitely the season.
More once I reach Delhi.
GOODBYE UDAIPUR, I'LL MISS YOU!
Sad news. I read a headline today about how five girls have been murdered in the last month by male members of their families, because they were going off to meet their 'unsuitable' boy friends. They are called 'honor killings', because the girls were going to stain their family's names by visiting with these unapproved boys. It's nice to know family means so much in this country.
I love my rickshaw wallah. Yesterday I told him it was my last day, and said goodbye. Today, as I was walking to the internet place, he pulled up next to me and told me to get in. I said I was just going a few blocks, I didn't need a ride. He said, smiling, 'no money, no money, just get in'. So I did, and he gave me a free ride to the internet place. So sweet. It's really nice when you meet the good people here. I'll miss him.
This afternoon I am heading over to the studio to say some last goodbyes and pick up my batiks. Very sad. The I'll go to my regular internet place, take a picture, kill some time, and say goodbye. Then I'll go to the bakery, and get some almond pie for the road! Then I'll go to Anna Restaurant, get an early dinner, take some pictures, and say goodbye. Then back to the hotel, finish packing (soooooo much stuff!) pay my bills, take some pictures, and say goodbye. Then it's off to the trainstation, for my oh so very long sleeper train ride, and I'm back in Delhi! Woo woo!
A few nights ago I went to the movie, Octopussy, and the restaurant. Oh James Bond, you are a silly man. It was a fun way to spend the evening though, and I had the most magnificent honey lassi ever.
So many weddings. So many. I saw one go by that had six grooms in one procession. Another time I saw three diferent ones in a row. It is definitely the season.
More once I reach Delhi.
GOODBYE UDAIPUR, I'LL MISS YOU!
Thursday, November 20, 2008
Who's a happy girl? Anna's a happy girl!
Want to see why?
THAT'S WHY!!!!!
There she is Ladies & Gents, Ophelia. 2 1/2 weeks o' batik work has paid off, in my mind. Unfortunately, this doesn't show the vibrancy of the colors very well, but it gives a nice idea. Plus, after we boiled her, I got to play with play-dough---how could life get better??!! For after I get back, and for those who are interested, I have pictures from every step of the process. Each time we waxed & dyed her...so if you're interested in seeing how it got to here, just ask.
I got my ticket for Delhi today. the 25th, leaving at 6:30 pm. sleeper train. Should be a little easier than my ride there, except for needing to keep my bags real close and not falling too soundly asleep.
Interesting observation: People in India yell. A lot. And it's not necessarily a bad thing. Everyday my batik family yells at each other constantly, in very elevated Hindi. I have no idea what they are talking about, but it sounds like they are about to kill each other. The other day I was sitting while there was a particularly heated, violent sounding conversation going on, and I was not looking up, pretending I was deaf or not in the room, since it was obviously supposed to be private. At one point I glanced up, and Rashida-ji and the woman she was talking to were both smiling away! The use of tone in the voice is so different here...to just hear the conversation you would swear it was an arguement, but if you could only see it it was obviously just two friends chatting. so weird. Confusing too.
All for now. Tomorrow's my day off, so I'll probably shoot off another post.
Oh yeah, the last two days I've had to stand in the street for 15 minutes on my walk home so wedding processions could go by. craziness.
THAT'S WHY!!!!!
There she is Ladies & Gents, Ophelia. 2 1/2 weeks o' batik work has paid off, in my mind. Unfortunately, this doesn't show the vibrancy of the colors very well, but it gives a nice idea. Plus, after we boiled her, I got to play with play-dough---how could life get better??!! For after I get back, and for those who are interested, I have pictures from every step of the process. Each time we waxed & dyed her...so if you're interested in seeing how it got to here, just ask.
I got my ticket for Delhi today. the 25th, leaving at 6:30 pm. sleeper train. Should be a little easier than my ride there, except for needing to keep my bags real close and not falling too soundly asleep.
Interesting observation: People in India yell. A lot. And it's not necessarily a bad thing. Everyday my batik family yells at each other constantly, in very elevated Hindi. I have no idea what they are talking about, but it sounds like they are about to kill each other. The other day I was sitting while there was a particularly heated, violent sounding conversation going on, and I was not looking up, pretending I was deaf or not in the room, since it was obviously supposed to be private. At one point I glanced up, and Rashida-ji and the woman she was talking to were both smiling away! The use of tone in the voice is so different here...to just hear the conversation you would swear it was an arguement, but if you could only see it it was obviously just two friends chatting. so weird. Confusing too.
All for now. Tomorrow's my day off, so I'll probably shoot off another post.
Oh yeah, the last two days I've had to stand in the street for 15 minutes on my walk home so wedding processions could go by. craziness.
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
Dear Indian Boy,
Just so you know, I do not find it cute, cool, intimidating, or in any way sexy when you look at me and say seductively, "Good morning Baby,". You look stupid. It's 8:30 PM, and dark out. Just so you know.
I have been feeling really good lately. Still not good about going out and doing fun things on my own, but starting to feel a little more like I could belong here. I have a regular rickshaw driver in the mornings, who does not over charge me or ask inappropriate question on our drive. He always pulls up in front of the other drivers when I come out of the hotel. I think he'll be a regular.
I also have a really nice cyber cafe, where they are nice and don't bother me, and also recognize me.
I've only been there twice now, but I think Anna Restaurant is going to be a usual dinner stop for me. It's right on the way home, and is too cheap and the food is too good to pass up. The people who run it are also really nice, already recognize me and say hi when I walk by on the way to the studio, and don't mind if I stay a little after I finish eating to read or write or draw. The boys are also really curious about America, but not in a creepy way.
So I have a nice little set up here. It's only for another week, but it feels good to not have to try and find a new place to eat every night (or just not eat), and I know I can spend a good amount of time in the internet place & not feel like a loser. It's also reeeeeeeally really nice not to have to argue about a rickshaw price every morning.
We had our first rain since September this morning. While it was a nice, light drizzle, it succeeded in making the rest of the day very humid, so even though the sun isn't out, it's kind of unpleasant. It was also the first somewhat chilly morning, although I'm sure all of you at home would kick me for saying that. Everybody here at the hotel and the studio keep telling me to bundle up since it's so cold and they don't want me to get sick. I try to explain to them that to me it just feels like a nice, cool autumn morning, but they don't really get it.
There were two big cockroaches in my bathroom last night. Those of you who know me know that I don't really mind bugs at all. You would have laughed at me last night, because I squealed like a girl and ran around on tip toe. They were reeeeeeally big. I got over it though.
Boiled three of my batiks today. So happy with how everything is turning out. Can't wait to show them to people. It's just so satisfying. You spend days (or weeks) covering a piece of cloth with wax, until it barely looks like anything anymore. You forget what colors you put on, the design is invisible, and all you have is a big piece of wax. Then you boil it, and scrap the wax off, rinse it, and there is a piece of beautiful, colorful artwork. It's amazing. I love it. They are all really pretty. Not gonna lie, I'm a little proud. I'm going to work on two more designs tonight, since Rashida-ji said that tomorrow should be my last day for starting new designs. After that I'll spend my time just finishing up the (now 5) pieces that will be unfinished. Should work out almost perfectly.
Also, yesterday I spent 15 minutes at a post office gluing three stamps each to 19 postcards. I've been writing them over the last month, but only just got around to sending them all. The postal workers laughed at me when I brought out the stack. I apologize that I will probably be home before the postcards reach anyone, but I still love you all. Now it'll be a nice little surprise for you in mid-December!
Love to everyone!
Just so you know, I do not find it cute, cool, intimidating, or in any way sexy when you look at me and say seductively, "Good morning Baby,". You look stupid. It's 8:30 PM, and dark out. Just so you know.
I have been feeling really good lately. Still not good about going out and doing fun things on my own, but starting to feel a little more like I could belong here. I have a regular rickshaw driver in the mornings, who does not over charge me or ask inappropriate question on our drive. He always pulls up in front of the other drivers when I come out of the hotel. I think he'll be a regular.
I also have a really nice cyber cafe, where they are nice and don't bother me, and also recognize me.
I've only been there twice now, but I think Anna Restaurant is going to be a usual dinner stop for me. It's right on the way home, and is too cheap and the food is too good to pass up. The people who run it are also really nice, already recognize me and say hi when I walk by on the way to the studio, and don't mind if I stay a little after I finish eating to read or write or draw. The boys are also really curious about America, but not in a creepy way.
So I have a nice little set up here. It's only for another week, but it feels good to not have to try and find a new place to eat every night (or just not eat), and I know I can spend a good amount of time in the internet place & not feel like a loser. It's also reeeeeeeally really nice not to have to argue about a rickshaw price every morning.
We had our first rain since September this morning. While it was a nice, light drizzle, it succeeded in making the rest of the day very humid, so even though the sun isn't out, it's kind of unpleasant. It was also the first somewhat chilly morning, although I'm sure all of you at home would kick me for saying that. Everybody here at the hotel and the studio keep telling me to bundle up since it's so cold and they don't want me to get sick. I try to explain to them that to me it just feels like a nice, cool autumn morning, but they don't really get it.
There were two big cockroaches in my bathroom last night. Those of you who know me know that I don't really mind bugs at all. You would have laughed at me last night, because I squealed like a girl and ran around on tip toe. They were reeeeeeally big. I got over it though.
Boiled three of my batiks today. So happy with how everything is turning out. Can't wait to show them to people. It's just so satisfying. You spend days (or weeks) covering a piece of cloth with wax, until it barely looks like anything anymore. You forget what colors you put on, the design is invisible, and all you have is a big piece of wax. Then you boil it, and scrap the wax off, rinse it, and there is a piece of beautiful, colorful artwork. It's amazing. I love it. They are all really pretty. Not gonna lie, I'm a little proud. I'm going to work on two more designs tonight, since Rashida-ji said that tomorrow should be my last day for starting new designs. After that I'll spend my time just finishing up the (now 5) pieces that will be unfinished. Should work out almost perfectly.
Also, yesterday I spent 15 minutes at a post office gluing three stamps each to 19 postcards. I've been writing them over the last month, but only just got around to sending them all. The postal workers laughed at me when I brought out the stack. I apologize that I will probably be home before the postcards reach anyone, but I still love you all. Now it'll be a nice little surprise for you in mid-December!
Love to everyone!
Monday, November 17, 2008
Last night, I went to a restaurant. It was called "Anna Restaurant". I thought that was funny. It was very nice. For anyone who wants to know, dosas are wonderful. They are a south Indian fried pancake-type thing. Very yummy. The restaurant play the James Bond movie "Octopussy" every night at 7:30. This movie is mostly in India, and apparently was partially shot in Udaipur, hence several business having 'Octopussy' written across their windows. A little weird. And for any of you who go and watch the movie now, just so you can see where I am, rickshaws don't go quite that fast. They can be zippy, but I'm pretty sure one would fall apart before you could have a real chase. I only watched the beginning of the movie, but perhaps one night I'll stay for the whole thing. Kind of funny.
Meh!
Meh!
Sunday, November 16, 2008
Oh India...
Something I find really adorable: instead of calling the spot where your shoe rubs your foot "blisters", they call them "shoe bites". I think that's really cute.
Something I don't find adorable: The fact that my shoes have bitten my feet EVERYWHERE.
Things are going pretty well. My rickshaw wallah this morning told me that I could pay, "as I wish", which made me really happy, so I gave him a little extra. Way to go Decent People!
Yesterday we boiled my large piece...it turned out! I must say, I am rather proud of it. It still gets another coat of wax, another dying, and then boiled again, but it's almost finished, and I can see that the two weeks of hard work I put into it turned out. Feeling very good about that. Since it actually looks nice enough for me to hang in my dorm room, I figure I can explain it to people. It is a batiked, madhubani-style picture of Ophelia, from Hamlet. It's big...about 3 by 4 feet...maybe, I'm actually a horrible judge of measurements...but it's large. Ophelia is half submerged in water, with a willow tree and grasses behind her, and she's holding long purples (which look more like grapes) and daisies. she also has daisies in her hair, which is down and wild. She is smiling, but has tears. The colors are different from my original plan, since I was only able to do two color schemes. The water & sky are maroon, but it looks really good in contrast with the yellow hair and green grass. And everything has a complicated double line of white, which is cracked with lots of black. It's kind of stained-glass like, but not really. I realize this is a really confusing description, that probably gives no idea of what it looks like, but I am excited about it and wanted to try. When I can (and when it's finished) I'll put up a picture.
I've also gotten really into wall-hangings that are more like posters...with writing. It's hard, because the writing cracks and can be difficult to read, plus I feel like since I'm just writing quotes it's not exactly "art", but I don't really care. I like it. I've been putting quotes I like with simple images or designs I come up with, usually in very basic colour schemes. Good stuff. I'm having fun with it. I love the colours. So so much.
I'm probably going to leave Udaipur on the 25th, so I can be in Delhi for the Thanksgiving Dinner @ the program center. I figure it will be a good way to spend my first thanksgiving away from home, rather than in my hotel room alone, eating masala potato chips and bananas. :-) Then, I fly home on the 7th. Three weeks from today. Oh god. So excited.
Thank you to the people who responded to my last post...it was really meaningful to read your emails & messages...this experience has involved a lot of "growing up" for me, and getting such insightful responses made me feel like it has paid off. I love you guys.
Another India Fun Fact!: "Blisters" are called "shoe bites"...the little jam packets that we normally see in diners and stuff? They are called "blister pack"...and ketchup packets are called "tomato sachets". Oh India!
Something I don't find adorable: The fact that my shoes have bitten my feet EVERYWHERE.
Things are going pretty well. My rickshaw wallah this morning told me that I could pay, "as I wish", which made me really happy, so I gave him a little extra. Way to go Decent People!
Yesterday we boiled my large piece...it turned out! I must say, I am rather proud of it. It still gets another coat of wax, another dying, and then boiled again, but it's almost finished, and I can see that the two weeks of hard work I put into it turned out. Feeling very good about that. Since it actually looks nice enough for me to hang in my dorm room, I figure I can explain it to people. It is a batiked, madhubani-style picture of Ophelia, from Hamlet. It's big...about 3 by 4 feet...maybe, I'm actually a horrible judge of measurements...but it's large. Ophelia is half submerged in water, with a willow tree and grasses behind her, and she's holding long purples (which look more like grapes) and daisies. she also has daisies in her hair, which is down and wild. She is smiling, but has tears. The colors are different from my original plan, since I was only able to do two color schemes. The water & sky are maroon, but it looks really good in contrast with the yellow hair and green grass. And everything has a complicated double line of white, which is cracked with lots of black. It's kind of stained-glass like, but not really. I realize this is a really confusing description, that probably gives no idea of what it looks like, but I am excited about it and wanted to try. When I can (and when it's finished) I'll put up a picture.
I've also gotten really into wall-hangings that are more like posters...with writing. It's hard, because the writing cracks and can be difficult to read, plus I feel like since I'm just writing quotes it's not exactly "art", but I don't really care. I like it. I've been putting quotes I like with simple images or designs I come up with, usually in very basic colour schemes. Good stuff. I'm having fun with it. I love the colours. So so much.
I'm probably going to leave Udaipur on the 25th, so I can be in Delhi for the Thanksgiving Dinner @ the program center. I figure it will be a good way to spend my first thanksgiving away from home, rather than in my hotel room alone, eating masala potato chips and bananas. :-) Then, I fly home on the 7th. Three weeks from today. Oh god. So excited.
Thank you to the people who responded to my last post...it was really meaningful to read your emails & messages...this experience has involved a lot of "growing up" for me, and getting such insightful responses made me feel like it has paid off. I love you guys.
Another India Fun Fact!: "Blisters" are called "shoe bites"...the little jam packets that we normally see in diners and stuff? They are called "blister pack"...and ketchup packets are called "tomato sachets". Oh India!
Friday, November 14, 2008
India: A Self-Reflective Essay
Preface: This was written partially at the request of dear Mother, who warned me that my blog may be getting too negative. This is an explanation/apology/excuse for that, lest anyone who reads this thinks that I hate it here.
As anyone who has wandered the world knows, travel is a high-stress situation. Even the most patient of travelers requires venting, and this can come out in varying degrees. When traveling with a companion, the whining may come in small doses, and appear quite moderate. However, when traveling by one's self, one is quite at loss for whom to vent to. I, being on my own, am in this situation. India, while incredible, has its faults, which I am continuously exposed to. I need to talk about them. Unfortunately, as I am by myself, this comes out online. while trying to make friends around the city, the last thing I want to do is complain about all the problems in this country. Since I have somewhat limited computer time, I realize that these complaints (which are sometimes just observations) can come in large batches, giving the impression that I can't stand it here. Apologies to everyone.
India brings out the best and the worst in people. while I doubt I have seen my worst, I have been introduced to certain traits of mine that I am not particularly fond of. While I have not necessarily overcome them or gotten rid of them, my awareness of their existence has surely moved me in a better direction. As for bringing out the best in me, I don't know about that. I do feel that I have a much higher level of self-confidence, at least when it comes to looking out for myself. I feel more aware, confident, responsible, and stronger, mentally. Most of these things have come from the more negative events that I have mentioned here. I general I don't mind the harassment of children and men in the street, and some days I actually enjoy the attitude it gives me. It feels good to be able to ignore the comments and catcalls and not be upset by them. When I get home, I will appreciate these things and the bravery they have given me. While I do recognize that, you, reader, must also recognize the difficulties of dealing with these situations every single day, without fail. There is no break from the catcalling and harassment. I know there is no real danger, and that it is not personal, and that I will be better for it. However, I would enjoy being able to walk to class one day without school children pulling on my clothing and holding my hand because I am white, and it would be nice if I could walk back without men slowing down on their motorcycles to say, "oh yes, pretty pretty, give a smile,". As good as it is for me, it is also mentally exhausting to avoid the leering stares and groping hands and concentrate on my walk home...every single day. And when I do get to the safety of my room, I have no one to laugh it off with. I do not want to tell my batik teachers because they will feel sorry for me and send their 70 year old servant woman to walk back with me to "protect" me. I don't need protection. No one will hurt me, and I can take care of myself. I need a release, and that comes out here, to my unfortunate readers.
I love it here. This is an incredible, wonderful, beautiful country. I have met some of the kindest, sweetest, most generous people I have ever known. I am daily reminded of how disgusting and evil mankind is, and reminded even more of how gentle and loving humans can be. I am soaking in the goodness, the vibrancy, the richness, the strength and the love this country is giving me. I hope it will be evident when I return, but if not, I know I will always feel it. As much as I am soaking in these positive things, I need to spit out the negativities as they come at me. I don't want to retain the skill of ignoring people and not making eye contact and having the assumption that a hello from a child will be followed by a request for money. Those things need to stay here, and if writing about it and telling people from home is the way to get those things out from inside of me, then that it what I have to do. I am sorry if it makes me seem miserable. Know that when I get back, the majority of what I will say will be the positive, amazing things that I have seen and experienced. Those are what I will keep inside.
I would also say that I am not homesick. I have been talking about home a lot, and it is true that in my copious amounts of free time/thinking time, my mind is continuously wandering to home, school, and camp. I miss them all incredibly, and am very much looking forward to returning, but I would not say I'm homesick. I think I am, perhaps overly, excited and eager to see what changes and outlooks this amazing new adventure will bring to my (already pretty spectacular) old life.
Cheers.
As anyone who has wandered the world knows, travel is a high-stress situation. Even the most patient of travelers requires venting, and this can come out in varying degrees. When traveling with a companion, the whining may come in small doses, and appear quite moderate. However, when traveling by one's self, one is quite at loss for whom to vent to. I, being on my own, am in this situation. India, while incredible, has its faults, which I am continuously exposed to. I need to talk about them. Unfortunately, as I am by myself, this comes out online. while trying to make friends around the city, the last thing I want to do is complain about all the problems in this country. Since I have somewhat limited computer time, I realize that these complaints (which are sometimes just observations) can come in large batches, giving the impression that I can't stand it here. Apologies to everyone.
India brings out the best and the worst in people. while I doubt I have seen my worst, I have been introduced to certain traits of mine that I am not particularly fond of. While I have not necessarily overcome them or gotten rid of them, my awareness of their existence has surely moved me in a better direction. As for bringing out the best in me, I don't know about that. I do feel that I have a much higher level of self-confidence, at least when it comes to looking out for myself. I feel more aware, confident, responsible, and stronger, mentally. Most of these things have come from the more negative events that I have mentioned here. I general I don't mind the harassment of children and men in the street, and some days I actually enjoy the attitude it gives me. It feels good to be able to ignore the comments and catcalls and not be upset by them. When I get home, I will appreciate these things and the bravery they have given me. While I do recognize that, you, reader, must also recognize the difficulties of dealing with these situations every single day, without fail. There is no break from the catcalling and harassment. I know there is no real danger, and that it is not personal, and that I will be better for it. However, I would enjoy being able to walk to class one day without school children pulling on my clothing and holding my hand because I am white, and it would be nice if I could walk back without men slowing down on their motorcycles to say, "oh yes, pretty pretty, give a smile,". As good as it is for me, it is also mentally exhausting to avoid the leering stares and groping hands and concentrate on my walk home...every single day. And when I do get to the safety of my room, I have no one to laugh it off with. I do not want to tell my batik teachers because they will feel sorry for me and send their 70 year old servant woman to walk back with me to "protect" me. I don't need protection. No one will hurt me, and I can take care of myself. I need a release, and that comes out here, to my unfortunate readers.
I love it here. This is an incredible, wonderful, beautiful country. I have met some of the kindest, sweetest, most generous people I have ever known. I am daily reminded of how disgusting and evil mankind is, and reminded even more of how gentle and loving humans can be. I am soaking in the goodness, the vibrancy, the richness, the strength and the love this country is giving me. I hope it will be evident when I return, but if not, I know I will always feel it. As much as I am soaking in these positive things, I need to spit out the negativities as they come at me. I don't want to retain the skill of ignoring people and not making eye contact and having the assumption that a hello from a child will be followed by a request for money. Those things need to stay here, and if writing about it and telling people from home is the way to get those things out from inside of me, then that it what I have to do. I am sorry if it makes me seem miserable. Know that when I get back, the majority of what I will say will be the positive, amazing things that I have seen and experienced. Those are what I will keep inside.
I would also say that I am not homesick. I have been talking about home a lot, and it is true that in my copious amounts of free time/thinking time, my mind is continuously wandering to home, school, and camp. I miss them all incredibly, and am very much looking forward to returning, but I would not say I'm homesick. I think I am, perhaps overly, excited and eager to see what changes and outlooks this amazing new adventure will bring to my (already pretty spectacular) old life.
Cheers.
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Life in Udaipur
Soooooooooo...I'm bored. Really bored. Batik is great though. very relaxing, and beautiful stuff. I'm working on a really big project right now, that I won't go into detail on. I don't want to talk about it too much, because it might not turn out so well. I'll find out in a few days though, when we boil all the wax off! THEN I'll talk about it.
I hurt my leg. I don't know how, but I seem to have pulled a muscle or something in my left calf. So now I get to hobble up and down the hills of Udaipur, or spend money on a rickshaw. I tend to hobble, because I get too angry at the rickshaws for overcharging me because I'm white. I also got some really nasty blisters, so the limp is added to. I'm lame. Literally. Hopefully it'll feel better soon.
Udaipur is really pretty. Very touristy, and full of European hippies. I pass at least one, usually two elephants on my way to the studio every day. I would take a picture of them, but if I ever stop to look for even a second the owner will try to get me to ride it and charge me a lot to take a picture. Stupid white skin of mine. I also see camels fairly regularly. They're the best. So sassy.
While the amount of time spent in my hotel room is generally quite frustrating, I've also have some fun moments. Awhile ago I had this wonderful, "I'm an artist" feeling. I've bought some cheap speakers for my iPod, so one evening I got back, put on some music, spread out my paper on the floor, and spent a good 3 hours sketching out a design for my big batik. Felt really good, in a goofy sort of way. Now I just need to get stuff like that for every night of the week...
Things to do when I get home:
~Take a long, hot, shower. Or a bath. The bucket showers are ok, and the cold water was nice when it was scorching out, but now it's time for some warm water.
~Eat food with NO spice. seriously. Indian food is great, spices are great. I reeeeeeeally just want some plain, bland food now. Please. Just a little something that will not make my taste buds go crazy. I had a piece of pizza last night, and even it had spices on it.
~Make eye contact with every person I see, and not worry that they will take it as a sexual advance.
~snuggle with sam. a lot. and mommy. and daddy. and jack, if he let's me. and LUCY.
~sleep on a pillow that does not feel like it's full of sawdust.
~Dance around the house and sing at the top of my lungs. Sorry Sam.
~Drink a lot of water from the tap, and eat a whole bucket of ice cubes. WithOUT getting dysentery. I miss ice.
Um...it's going to be cold when I get home. I was skyping with dear Michael Hull yesterday, and I was reminded that the weather here is not the weather everywhere else. So, for those of you who are curious, here is the regular forecast. Generally everyday is roughly 80 degrees Fahrenheit. I don't have an actual thermometer, so that's just a guess. But it is around that. Hasn't rained since September. Evenings get a little chilly, though that probably only means around 60. During the day the sun is strong and hot and killer. I sweat a lot.
So that's life in Udaipur. I've been here a week now, and will be home (HOME home) in approximately 4 weeks. So excited. Missing Delhi too. Love to all.
I hurt my leg. I don't know how, but I seem to have pulled a muscle or something in my left calf. So now I get to hobble up and down the hills of Udaipur, or spend money on a rickshaw. I tend to hobble, because I get too angry at the rickshaws for overcharging me because I'm white. I also got some really nasty blisters, so the limp is added to. I'm lame. Literally. Hopefully it'll feel better soon.
Udaipur is really pretty. Very touristy, and full of European hippies. I pass at least one, usually two elephants on my way to the studio every day. I would take a picture of them, but if I ever stop to look for even a second the owner will try to get me to ride it and charge me a lot to take a picture. Stupid white skin of mine. I also see camels fairly regularly. They're the best. So sassy.
While the amount of time spent in my hotel room is generally quite frustrating, I've also have some fun moments. Awhile ago I had this wonderful, "I'm an artist" feeling. I've bought some cheap speakers for my iPod, so one evening I got back, put on some music, spread out my paper on the floor, and spent a good 3 hours sketching out a design for my big batik. Felt really good, in a goofy sort of way. Now I just need to get stuff like that for every night of the week...
Things to do when I get home:
~Take a long, hot, shower. Or a bath. The bucket showers are ok, and the cold water was nice when it was scorching out, but now it's time for some warm water.
~Eat food with NO spice. seriously. Indian food is great, spices are great. I reeeeeeeally just want some plain, bland food now. Please. Just a little something that will not make my taste buds go crazy. I had a piece of pizza last night, and even it had spices on it.
~Make eye contact with every person I see, and not worry that they will take it as a sexual advance.
~snuggle with sam. a lot. and mommy. and daddy. and jack, if he let's me. and LUCY.
~sleep on a pillow that does not feel like it's full of sawdust.
~Dance around the house and sing at the top of my lungs. Sorry Sam.
~Drink a lot of water from the tap, and eat a whole bucket of ice cubes. WithOUT getting dysentery. I miss ice.
Um...it's going to be cold when I get home. I was skyping with dear Michael Hull yesterday, and I was reminded that the weather here is not the weather everywhere else. So, for those of you who are curious, here is the regular forecast. Generally everyday is roughly 80 degrees Fahrenheit. I don't have an actual thermometer, so that's just a guess. But it is around that. Hasn't rained since September. Evenings get a little chilly, though that probably only means around 60. During the day the sun is strong and hot and killer. I sweat a lot.
So that's life in Udaipur. I've been here a week now, and will be home (HOME home) in approximately 4 weeks. So excited. Missing Delhi too. Love to all.
Saturday, November 8, 2008
Classes!
Yay! I got all the classes I wanted...this would be the first time that has happened, so I'm pretty happy. For those of you at 'berg, and who care, here is what I have:
Acting Classical Verse (YES!) TR 11:30-12:20
Stage Combat, Rapier & Dagger S 12:00-3:00
Philosophy East & West TR 2:00-3:15
Shakespeare II MW 3:00-4:15
Medieval Literature MW 12:30-1:45
I'm pretty psyched, even though I think it's going to be a ridiculous amount of work. An acting class, a writing intensive, weekend stuff, and probably a lot of reading. But it's all mostly theater/stuff I'm really interested in, so it should be ok. Plus I've spent the entire last semester theater-free, so it's really time to get some of that. Can't wait.
Do let me know if we match up with anything.
Acting Classical Verse (YES!) TR 11:30-12:20
Stage Combat, Rapier & Dagger S 12:00-3:00
Philosophy East & West TR 2:00-3:15
Shakespeare II MW 3:00-4:15
Medieval Literature MW 12:30-1:45
I'm pretty psyched, even though I think it's going to be a ridiculous amount of work. An acting class, a writing intensive, weekend stuff, and probably a lot of reading. But it's all mostly theater/stuff I'm really interested in, so it should be ok. Plus I've spent the entire last semester theater-free, so it's really time to get some of that. Can't wait.
Do let me know if we match up with anything.
Friday, November 7, 2008
Yeah, I suck at posting. Whatever. I'm in a internet place and was about to register for classes when I discovered that daylight savings time has occured in the US, and I actually have an hour to kill here before I can register. Not too pleased about that, since it means walking home after dark tonight, which will be less than pleasant. Oh well, if it means I get a blog entry in, I guess that's all that matters!
So, it's been awhile. Finished up in Delhi about a week ago, where finals went reasonably well, although I have no idea how I actually did on them. Spent a day or two hanging out with people and packing, then left early Sunday to catch my train. Spent all day riding the rails, although I had a three hour break in Ajmer where I sat in the ladies waiting room and had awkward conversations with many Indian women, who took pity on the awkward and uncomfortable looking american who sat across from them. Then I went out to catch my next train, only to discover that, though three people had told me I was at the right platform, it was actually three platforms over. Seeing as how I had two minutes till it pulled out, I ran up the steps, over the crosswalk, and back down, ran to my car, and jumped in the door as it started moving. All with an enormas backpack and a small duffle. I think I had a small heart attack, and it took me a good while to catch my breath.
Arrived in Udaipur late, and got settled into my hotel. The people are very nice, and told me that it was my family, not a hotel. My batik lessons are from 11-4, with an hour break for lunch. I'm on my own for lunch. I have to say that while I enjoy batiking immensly, I'm not sure how this is going to work out. I have far too much alone time, and apparently I hate doing anything on my own. Not because I can't, but I just have no desire to go out and eat by myself, or walk around town, or site see, or anything by myself. It's just not that fun. I walk to and from batik, which takes about half an hour each way, so that takes up some of my time. If I stop at an internet place it kills some of it, but I still usually need to be back to my hotel by 6, when it gets dark. From then on it's just me, drawing and reading and day dreaming.
Thankfully last night I got in touch with a couple of American girls that Dheeraj-ji told me about, and we had dinner and hung out. It was a wonderful relief. They are both leaving for Delhi today though, so it doesn't do me too much good for the future. One comes back in a week, so hopefully after that I'll have someone to hang out with. I just need to get in the mode of meeting people, but I'm a little shy for that. It'll work out eventually I suppose.
So that's what I'm up to at the moment. Udaipur is lovely, though, as I said above, would be lovelier if I had someone to share it with. Everyday I walk past dozens and dozens of shops and stall selling beautiful clothes and scarves and jewelry and all things wonderful, although I can't even glance at the thing hanging up without the owners (who all seem to be 20 year old boys) running out and saying "Hello Pretty, want to look? Just step in, look look, no buy". I have gotton really good at flat out ignoring people's existence, which hopefully will not carry over when I get back to the states.
random note--the owner of this internet place looks somewhat like Hank Azaria. It makes me really happy. Along similar lines, I love seeing people here that look exactly like people from home, except that their Indian. Nick Flatto, I saw a boy here that looked so much like you, I did a double take. Except that he was Indian. Weird. Happens a lot actually.
Only about four weeks till home. So excited. Love to you all, and apologies for taking so ridiculously long to get out this post.
So, it's been awhile. Finished up in Delhi about a week ago, where finals went reasonably well, although I have no idea how I actually did on them. Spent a day or two hanging out with people and packing, then left early Sunday to catch my train. Spent all day riding the rails, although I had a three hour break in Ajmer where I sat in the ladies waiting room and had awkward conversations with many Indian women, who took pity on the awkward and uncomfortable looking american who sat across from them. Then I went out to catch my next train, only to discover that, though three people had told me I was at the right platform, it was actually three platforms over. Seeing as how I had two minutes till it pulled out, I ran up the steps, over the crosswalk, and back down, ran to my car, and jumped in the door as it started moving. All with an enormas backpack and a small duffle. I think I had a small heart attack, and it took me a good while to catch my breath.
Arrived in Udaipur late, and got settled into my hotel. The people are very nice, and told me that it was my family, not a hotel. My batik lessons are from 11-4, with an hour break for lunch. I'm on my own for lunch. I have to say that while I enjoy batiking immensly, I'm not sure how this is going to work out. I have far too much alone time, and apparently I hate doing anything on my own. Not because I can't, but I just have no desire to go out and eat by myself, or walk around town, or site see, or anything by myself. It's just not that fun. I walk to and from batik, which takes about half an hour each way, so that takes up some of my time. If I stop at an internet place it kills some of it, but I still usually need to be back to my hotel by 6, when it gets dark. From then on it's just me, drawing and reading and day dreaming.
Thankfully last night I got in touch with a couple of American girls that Dheeraj-ji told me about, and we had dinner and hung out. It was a wonderful relief. They are both leaving for Delhi today though, so it doesn't do me too much good for the future. One comes back in a week, so hopefully after that I'll have someone to hang out with. I just need to get in the mode of meeting people, but I'm a little shy for that. It'll work out eventually I suppose.
So that's what I'm up to at the moment. Udaipur is lovely, though, as I said above, would be lovelier if I had someone to share it with. Everyday I walk past dozens and dozens of shops and stall selling beautiful clothes and scarves and jewelry and all things wonderful, although I can't even glance at the thing hanging up without the owners (who all seem to be 20 year old boys) running out and saying "Hello Pretty, want to look? Just step in, look look, no buy". I have gotton really good at flat out ignoring people's existence, which hopefully will not carry over when I get back to the states.
random note--the owner of this internet place looks somewhat like Hank Azaria. It makes me really happy. Along similar lines, I love seeing people here that look exactly like people from home, except that their Indian. Nick Flatto, I saw a boy here that looked so much like you, I did a double take. Except that he was Indian. Weird. Happens a lot actually.
Only about four weeks till home. So excited. Love to you all, and apologies for taking so ridiculously long to get out this post.
Sunday, October 26, 2008
Finally some Pictures!
Hello World! I know, I know, it’s been a really long time since I’ve written. It’s been crazy busy here, plus I was waiting until I could figure out how to put up photos. I'm going to try to edit some of my past posts and put up corresponding photos, so check out some of the old updates to see pics from Gwalior and Taj Mahal, etc.Okay, so, attempting to update from when I last wrote: I went to
~Little background on batik: Batik is painting with hot wax. It’s a resist-art method, which means you draw a design on fabric, and then start painting it on with wax. You paint everything that you want to be the lightest color first. Then you dye the material the next lightest color. The wax keeps the dye out of the areas it is on. Then you paint everything you want to be the next lightest. Then you dye again. You keep doing this until you get to the darkest color, and the material is almost completely covered in wax. Then you boil the material and carefully scrap off the wax, and Viola! You have a wall hanging or a scarf or some other pretty thing. It’s really cool.
I’m going to be spending a lot of time alone while on ISP, which I’m a little bit worried about, but I think it will be okay. I’m also really looking forward to being on my own. The hard part will be evenings, since I can’t really wander around town by myself at night, so I’m just going to be stuck in my hotel room a lot. But I have lots of sketchpads and colored pencils, and I’m going to buy some paints I think. I also have a book of Marlowe plays, and since I’ve never read any of his stuff before, I think it will be a good time to. So it’s going to be awesome. And I’m going to get to make a lot of awesome stuff.
This is Dishu and I being silly. I know, we are adorable aren't we?
So that’s where I am right now. It’s really weird to think about leaving
I think this has to be it for now, but I'll try to get another post up again soon. Things are crazy since ISP starts soon and I have finals all this week. Damned Hindi. Grrrrr.
Love!
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Just a quick quick update--I can't write for long, but I promise I will try to write more about these few things when I get back.
~Sari shopping and the Indian wedding I went to last night. It was incredible, intense, and involved a lot of drunk cousins trying to get the white girls to dance with them. I'll go into more details about the ceremony and stuff next week.
I leave in a few hours for a 12 hour bus ride to Udaipur, where three of us are learning batik. It's about five days, and I doubt I'll have internet, so don't expect any updates. Sorry for the lack of info I've been sending out. We haven't had a free day for quite some time, and the 'free time' we do have gets sucked up very quickly by studying, research, and family stuff. Hopefully when I get back I'll have a little more time. Probably not, but I'll try.
Love you all!
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Back in Delhi!
Oh boy, what an adventure this last week has been. It would take pages and pages for me to describe everything I saw and everything that happened, so I'll try and make it a somewhat condensed version.
On the 24th we took a four hour train ride to Gwalior, a small city south of Delhi. Gwalior, while not my favorite place on the excursion, had my favorite site. After wandering around a museum-type place, we went up to the fort ruins that were on top of the hill. It was amazing, and I have never seen anything more beautiful in my life. When everybody comes to visit me here, that's where we are going. The ruins were spectacular, and the fact that they overlooked a city from the top of a mountain definitely added to the experience. It was straight out of a Lord of the Rings or some other similar movie. My favorite.
The 25th we went to Orchha, which was a wonderful little town. My favorite town so far. Really nice people, and a really awesome palace--that was used for only one night when the emperor came to visit. Complete with camel stables and concubine houses. Just for the one night. It was incredible, and the view from the chatras (turret-like things) was so beautiful. I had a really good time there, because we were finally out in the country. One of my friends and I took a walk through some of the fields and through some old temple ruins, and it was just so relaxing and pleasant. Then we waded and skipped stones on the Betwa river while green parakeets flew overhead. So picturesque.
On the 26th we went to Kajuraho. Ick. The temples...of which there are many...were amazing. The Kajuraho temples are famous for being covered with friezes and carving of people. And I mean covered. The entire temples are intricately carved with beautiful figures. The majority of the figures are in erotic poses--women putting on make-up or brushing their hair while completely naked. There were also some rather interesting sex poses, with more detail than anyone needed. It was pretty neat though.
The problem with Kajuraho was the town. Built up completely on tourism and commercialism, it was by far the most unpleasant place we've been to. Many a shopkeeper lost almost certain business from us because of their nagging and harassment attempting to get us into their stores. It was just obnoxious. Everybody was thoroughly frustrated and ready to leave after our second day there.
Oh yes, and while we were there we got word that there was another bomb blast in Delhi. It was at a flower market about a kilometer from our program center. There was a festival there that we were planning on going to if we hadn't been on excursion. The last I heard 2 children and 2 adults were killed, although I'm sure there were more. Because of this, Brattleboro (the headquarters of SIT) decided that it would be a bad idea for us to go back to Delhi right away, so we were to continue with our trip, but instead of going home on Tuesday we were driving to Rajasthan to Dr. Storm's country house.
On the 28th we went to Agra, where we saw the Taj Mahal! Woo woo! Finally a name that some of you may have actually heard of! It was pretty damn cool. I was expecting it to be a slight let down, since it's one of those things so hyped up and all. But no, it was pretty awesome. Huge. It was so freaking big. It was also really nice because it has ridiculous security to get in, so we weren't harassed at all and everyone in there had paid to get in and were really nice and offering to take pictures and it was generally really pleasant. My husband better build me something like that when I kick the bucket. Oh, and did I mention that we road from the parking lot to the main gait in a camel rickshaw? Because we did. I LOVE CAMELS!
Then on to Rajasthan. The road to Rajasthan (sounds like a movie!) is awful. It was supposed to be three hours from Agra to her house, but due to the ridiculous ruts and potholes, it was actually about 5 hours. And because of the bumps nobody could sleep. We all cracked our heads multiple times on the roof.
Her house is beautiful. They have spent that last six years restoring an 18th century palace, complete with walled garden, chatras, enormous kitchen, and--everybody's favorite--swimming pool. We spent some quality time with that swimming pool. It was nice and very relaxing there, and on the second day we took an open-air jeep safari ride through the tiger sanctuary. Didn't see any tigers (turns out there are only two in the whole sanctuary) but it was a really fun and lovely ride, and we did get to see a lot of monkeys and deer and antelope and wild boar and a jackel or two.
Then this morning (the 2nd), we got back in our jeeps and drove for 4 hours back to Delhi! I loved being out of the city, but it was nice to get home. We were worried for awhile that we wouldn't be able to go back at all and that we'd have to take the program on the road. It would have been awesome, but also would make ISP really hard. I think that my ISP is going to end up based in Delhi. There are actually about 5 of us that are staying here, so it will be nice because we can probably get a place together.
So that was the trip in a nutshell. There was a lot more to it, and a million things happened that I didn't even touch on, but this would go on forever if I tried to say everything. We're only here for another week, and then we leave for our site workshops. I'm going with about 4 other people to Udaipur for five days to learn batik. Should be fun.
I hope everyone is doing well. Because of the ridiculous amount of car time we've had, I've had an awful lot of time to think about how much I miss everybody. Which is a lot. Please email or comment and let me know how you're doing and what you're up to. I'm eager to hear about stuff from home!
Oh yeah--Happy Birthday Gandhi!
On the 24th we took a four hour train ride to Gwalior, a small city south of Delhi. Gwalior, while not my favorite place on the excursion, had my favorite site. After wandering around a museum-type place, we went up to the fort ruins that were on top of the hill. It was amazing, and I have never seen anything more beautiful in my life. When everybody comes to visit me here, that's where we are going. The ruins were spectacular, and the fact that they overlooked a city from the top of a mountain definitely added to the experience. It was straight out of a Lord of the Rings or some other similar movie. My favorite.
The 25th we went to Orchha, which was a wonderful little town. My favorite town so far. Really nice people, and a really awesome palace--that was used for only one night when the emperor came to visit. Complete with camel stables and concubine houses. Just for the one night. It was incredible, and the view from the chatras (turret-like things) was so beautiful. I had a really good time there, because we were finally out in the country. One of my friends and I took a walk through some of the fields and through some old temple ruins, and it was just so relaxing and pleasant. Then we waded and skipped stones on the Betwa river while green parakeets flew overhead. So picturesque.
On the 26th we went to Kajuraho. Ick. The temples...of which there are many...were amazing. The Kajuraho temples are famous for being covered with friezes and carving of people. And I mean covered. The entire temples are intricately carved with beautiful figures. The majority of the figures are in erotic poses--women putting on make-up or brushing their hair while completely naked. There were also some rather interesting sex poses, with more detail than anyone needed. It was pretty neat though.
The problem with Kajuraho was the town. Built up completely on tourism and commercialism, it was by far the most unpleasant place we've been to. Many a shopkeeper lost almost certain business from us because of their nagging and harassment attempting to get us into their stores. It was just obnoxious. Everybody was thoroughly frustrated and ready to leave after our second day there.
Oh yes, and while we were there we got word that there was another bomb blast in Delhi. It was at a flower market about a kilometer from our program center. There was a festival there that we were planning on going to if we hadn't been on excursion. The last I heard 2 children and 2 adults were killed, although I'm sure there were more. Because of this, Brattleboro (the headquarters of SIT) decided that it would be a bad idea for us to go back to Delhi right away, so we were to continue with our trip, but instead of going home on Tuesday we were driving to Rajasthan to Dr. Storm's country house.
On the 28th we went to Agra, where we saw the Taj Mahal! Woo woo! Finally a name that some of you may have actually heard of! It was pretty damn cool. I was expecting it to be a slight let down, since it's one of those things so hyped up and all. But no, it was pretty awesome. Huge. It was so freaking big. It was also really nice because it has ridiculous security to get in, so we weren't harassed at all and everyone in there had paid to get in and were really nice and offering to take pictures and it was generally really pleasant. My husband better build me something like that when I kick the bucket. Oh, and did I mention that we road from the parking lot to the main gait in a camel rickshaw? Because we did. I LOVE CAMELS!
Then on to Rajasthan. The road to Rajasthan (sounds like a movie!) is awful. It was supposed to be three hours from Agra to her house, but due to the ridiculous ruts and potholes, it was actually about 5 hours. And because of the bumps nobody could sleep. We all cracked our heads multiple times on the roof.
Her house is beautiful. They have spent that last six years restoring an 18th century palace, complete with walled garden, chatras, enormous kitchen, and--everybody's favorite--swimming pool. We spent some quality time with that swimming pool. It was nice and very relaxing there, and on the second day we took an open-air jeep safari ride through the tiger sanctuary. Didn't see any tigers (turns out there are only two in the whole sanctuary) but it was a really fun and lovely ride, and we did get to see a lot of monkeys and deer and antelope and wild boar and a jackel or two.
Then this morning (the 2nd), we got back in our jeeps and drove for 4 hours back to Delhi! I loved being out of the city, but it was nice to get home. We were worried for awhile that we wouldn't be able to go back at all and that we'd have to take the program on the road. It would have been awesome, but also would make ISP really hard. I think that my ISP is going to end up based in Delhi. There are actually about 5 of us that are staying here, so it will be nice because we can probably get a place together.
So that was the trip in a nutshell. There was a lot more to it, and a million things happened that I didn't even touch on, but this would go on forever if I tried to say everything. We're only here for another week, and then we leave for our site workshops. I'm going with about 4 other people to Udaipur for five days to learn batik. Should be fun.
I hope everyone is doing well. Because of the ridiculous amount of car time we've had, I've had an awful lot of time to think about how much I miss everybody. Which is a lot. Please email or comment and let me know how you're doing and what you're up to. I'm eager to hear about stuff from home!
Oh yeah--Happy Birthday Gandhi!
Monday, September 22, 2008
Touch wood...
that's what they say here instead of "knock on wood". Just thought I'd share that.
Amazing weekend. Friday night I stayed at home, and was Dishou's jungle gym. I don't quite know what he found so enjoyable about being picked up by his feet and swung around, but I have never heard a child giggle and laugh as much as he did. It was great. Then I watched Indian Idol with my host dad. It was...interesting.
Saturday I went to the mall with my roommate. Just to walk around and pretend we were in the US for a little bit. We bought really good cheese...so happy. I also got another suit from FabIndia. It's blue. Almost every suit I have gotten is blue. I think I'm in a rut.
Then, Saturday night, we went to a bar/club in Saket Market (very close to where we live), where we met up with my host parents and got drinks and hung out. It was awesome. They were totally into happy hour and smoking (not that I like the smoking, but the fact that it is okay for my host mom to smoke in public is cool--it's a pretty conservative country), and then a few of our friends from the program came and we all hit the dance floor. It was awesome. As weird as Indian pop is, it sure has a good beat. Nothing like dancing to "Singh is King", "K-R-A-Z-Z-Y", and a number of other scandalous songs while out with your parents! Who, by the way, know how to dirty dance better than anyone in the states. I love my family. I can't express that enough.
Then last night (sunday) we went to Deepak's family's house for dinner and met his parents and grandmother and siblings and all their little kids. It was really nice. Most of the time they spoke in Hindi so we didn't know what was going on, but it was really nice to see what a big happy family it was. That's what a lot of India is like. Everybody is part of the family, even if you grow up and move out. Everybody takes care of everyone's kids, and there is no distinction of whether you've married in or were originally part of it. It's beautiful.
This Wednesday we leave early for our first excursion. We are going to Gwailor, Orccha, Kajuraho, and a few other places, including Agra. I get to see the Taj Mahal! I'm excited, in a touristy kind of way. That means no entries for awhile though.
I must get to work on a paper now. It's due at 8:30 tomorrow morning (right before my Hindi midterm), and I have no idea what I'm going to write about. Oops!
P.S. for anyone from Holly's class--I am currently wearing a t-shirt that says "Same same but different" on it. Yes, they sell them everywhere here. It's wonderful.
Amazing weekend. Friday night I stayed at home, and was Dishou's jungle gym. I don't quite know what he found so enjoyable about being picked up by his feet and swung around, but I have never heard a child giggle and laugh as much as he did. It was great. Then I watched Indian Idol with my host dad. It was...interesting.
Saturday I went to the mall with my roommate. Just to walk around and pretend we were in the US for a little bit. We bought really good cheese...so happy. I also got another suit from FabIndia. It's blue. Almost every suit I have gotten is blue. I think I'm in a rut.
Then, Saturday night, we went to a bar/club in Saket Market (very close to where we live), where we met up with my host parents and got drinks and hung out. It was awesome. They were totally into happy hour and smoking (not that I like the smoking, but the fact that it is okay for my host mom to smoke in public is cool--it's a pretty conservative country), and then a few of our friends from the program came and we all hit the dance floor. It was awesome. As weird as Indian pop is, it sure has a good beat. Nothing like dancing to "Singh is King", "K-R-A-Z-Z-Y", and a number of other scandalous songs while out with your parents! Who, by the way, know how to dirty dance better than anyone in the states. I love my family. I can't express that enough.
Then last night (sunday) we went to Deepak's family's house for dinner and met his parents and grandmother and siblings and all their little kids. It was really nice. Most of the time they spoke in Hindi so we didn't know what was going on, but it was really nice to see what a big happy family it was. That's what a lot of India is like. Everybody is part of the family, even if you grow up and move out. Everybody takes care of everyone's kids, and there is no distinction of whether you've married in or were originally part of it. It's beautiful.
This Wednesday we leave early for our first excursion. We are going to Gwailor, Orccha, Kajuraho, and a few other places, including Agra. I get to see the Taj Mahal! I'm excited, in a touristy kind of way. That means no entries for awhile though.
I must get to work on a paper now. It's due at 8:30 tomorrow morning (right before my Hindi midterm), and I have no idea what I'm going to write about. Oops!
P.S. for anyone from Holly's class--I am currently wearing a t-shirt that says "Same same but different" on it. Yes, they sell them everywhere here. It's wonderful.
Friday, September 19, 2008
Bahut Accha...very good
A few days ago something happened and I realized how much I love this place. The monsoon has two stages here--the main part is as it goes through Delhi and heads up north. That's the big monsoon season. Then, later, it comes back through as it heads south again. We're in that part.
On Wednesday we were at our painting practica when it started. We had had little bits of rain before, but we were always inside and managed to miss it. We finished out lesson, and four of us trooped outside into the rain to find a rickshaw home. We were quickly drenched, but we did find one that would drop us all off at our respective homes. Since there were four of us, I got to ride sidesaddle on the side bar with my bum half-hanging out the window.
While driving along we would look down the side streets to see that they were completely covered in water with cars bumper-deep plowing through. While stopped at a light we saw a man pushing his bicycle through several inches of water. The bike had a refrigerator and a bunch of other huge bundles strapped to the back of it.
At that moment, with the four of us piled on top of each other in the cold, wet, polluted and disgusting thunderstorm, I felt such an intense love for this country. I don't know why, because, quite frankly, it was disgusting, but I loved it. I love it here.
Most of the time it just feels like I'm stuck in a big scary city, except that it's even scarier because of the language and cultural differences. I keep forgetting that I actually am in India, half way around the world. When those moments hit...damn, it's amazing. How did I get here?
Last night my host brother and I had some nice bonding. He's so adorable. He was in our room showing me magic tricks (really bad ones), telling me about his baby doll, and expressing his intense love of power rangers and super heroes. Then he decided to be a tattoo artist and broke out the markers. By dinner I had a lion, giraffe, caterpillar and camel on my forearms, and the pink power ranger on my hand. Because, according to Dishou, I am the pink power ranger. I consider this great progress in our relationship. He's a sweetie.
And today, for no reason, my host dad made me a banana milkshake. Pure bliss. I love my family. Accha Pariwar. Good family.
On Wednesday we were at our painting practica when it started. We had had little bits of rain before, but we were always inside and managed to miss it. We finished out lesson, and four of us trooped outside into the rain to find a rickshaw home. We were quickly drenched, but we did find one that would drop us all off at our respective homes. Since there were four of us, I got to ride sidesaddle on the side bar with my bum half-hanging out the window.
While driving along we would look down the side streets to see that they were completely covered in water with cars bumper-deep plowing through. While stopped at a light we saw a man pushing his bicycle through several inches of water. The bike had a refrigerator and a bunch of other huge bundles strapped to the back of it.
At that moment, with the four of us piled on top of each other in the cold, wet, polluted and disgusting thunderstorm, I felt such an intense love for this country. I don't know why, because, quite frankly, it was disgusting, but I loved it. I love it here.
Most of the time it just feels like I'm stuck in a big scary city, except that it's even scarier because of the language and cultural differences. I keep forgetting that I actually am in India, half way around the world. When those moments hit...damn, it's amazing. How did I get here?
Last night my host brother and I had some nice bonding. He's so adorable. He was in our room showing me magic tricks (really bad ones), telling me about his baby doll, and expressing his intense love of power rangers and super heroes. Then he decided to be a tattoo artist and broke out the markers. By dinner I had a lion, giraffe, caterpillar and camel on my forearms, and the pink power ranger on my hand. Because, according to Dishou, I am the pink power ranger. I consider this great progress in our relationship. He's a sweetie.
And today, for no reason, my host dad made me a banana milkshake. Pure bliss. I love my family. Accha Pariwar. Good family.
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Dreams and such
Finally started dreaming again...I haven't had any (or at least remembered any) since I got here. I didn't realize how much I missed having them until I had a few. Nelle & Nick, if you're reading this, I had one about you. I don't remember what happened, but it was a good dream. I'm excited for next semester.
This is bad, because it's only been 3 1/2 weeks, but I'm starting to feel ready to go home. I'm not homesick, and I don't mind being here, but I would be fine heading back in the next week. I don't know where that feeling came from, but it's definitely here. Hopefully it won't persist. I think it's a comfort thing. I am comfortable here, but things aren't convenient. I don't mean pre-packaged, everything perfect convenient, but more just that I know what's going on. I miss the ease of being at home or at school. Knowing how to get places, where I can get a good price on whatever, what is the best reading place, all that sort of stuff. Everything here is still new, and I keep finding different things. It's really cool, and I was enjoying that adventure for the first few weeks, but it's starting to exhaust me. There is no quiet. I don't mean in terms of sound, but in terms of a mental state. I can't go sit in a park, and there are no trees for me to read in. There are times when I find that state of serenity, but it's not as calm or as satisfying as when I get it at home. I always come out of it wanting more.
I think that's part of why I have recently been tired all the time. Every few hours I feel like I need to take a nap. And not a twenty minute nap--an hour or so nap. I sleep from 10:00 to 7:00 every night and wake up not feeling at all rested. Probably part of that is from dehydration or not getting enough exercise and stuff like that, but I think it also comes from not having the kind of mental relaxation that I am used to. I'm not stressed out all the time, but there is no ease. Perhaps it will go away, but I feel like that's just what life is like here. I guess I'll find out.
At some point I will write an entry that is actually about India. You know, the cows, the traffic, the window shopping--the things that I could only write because I am here. But not today. Eventually, just not today.
I hope things are well with everyone...please drop me a line sometime or send me a letter. I miss you all!
This is bad, because it's only been 3 1/2 weeks, but I'm starting to feel ready to go home. I'm not homesick, and I don't mind being here, but I would be fine heading back in the next week. I don't know where that feeling came from, but it's definitely here. Hopefully it won't persist. I think it's a comfort thing. I am comfortable here, but things aren't convenient. I don't mean pre-packaged, everything perfect convenient, but more just that I know what's going on. I miss the ease of being at home or at school. Knowing how to get places, where I can get a good price on whatever, what is the best reading place, all that sort of stuff. Everything here is still new, and I keep finding different things. It's really cool, and I was enjoying that adventure for the first few weeks, but it's starting to exhaust me. There is no quiet. I don't mean in terms of sound, but in terms of a mental state. I can't go sit in a park, and there are no trees for me to read in. There are times when I find that state of serenity, but it's not as calm or as satisfying as when I get it at home. I always come out of it wanting more.
I think that's part of why I have recently been tired all the time. Every few hours I feel like I need to take a nap. And not a twenty minute nap--an hour or so nap. I sleep from 10:00 to 7:00 every night and wake up not feeling at all rested. Probably part of that is from dehydration or not getting enough exercise and stuff like that, but I think it also comes from not having the kind of mental relaxation that I am used to. I'm not stressed out all the time, but there is no ease. Perhaps it will go away, but I feel like that's just what life is like here. I guess I'll find out.
At some point I will write an entry that is actually about India. You know, the cows, the traffic, the window shopping--the things that I could only write because I am here. But not today. Eventually, just not today.
I hope things are well with everyone...please drop me a line sometime or send me a letter. I miss you all!
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Hey everyone,
I don't know haw many people may have heard about this, but yesterday (the 13th) there were five bombings in New Delhi. I am safe, and everyone I know here is. We all got a little shaken up, because two of the bombs went off in a market that we regularly shop at and had even been out to dinner in the night before. They were low-intensity bombs, and the last I heard there was a total of 15 that had been killed, and around a hundred injured. That was last night anyway. Luckily most of the students on our program were in the same area, so we all gathered at one person's house to watch the news and spend the night so we weren't out rickshawing late at night in all the chaos. As luck would have it, our phones all stopped working that morning too, so everyone was going crazy trying to get in touch with the program directors and find out what we should do. Everybody's safe and sound, and tomorrow we have a big meeting at the program center to discuss future safety precautions and stuff. Apparently Storm-ji (academic director) has canceled classes for the next week, so I don't know what that means for the future of the program.
Katz and I got home around 11 this morning, and have spent most of the day with our family. It's been nice being around, since we don't normally see both Deepak and Deepika together because of their shifts at work. Yesterday we finally got to give them their homestay gifts, which was fun. We also went out to lunch with them and Dishant today at a really good Chinese food place. Lots of fun. Dishant has gotten much friendly with Katz & I, which is great. He's adorable.
I haven't been homesick, but I've been thinking a lot about home these last few days. I don't know why, but it's kind of strange. I think it's got to do with knowing that it is going to be completely different when I get back. Both physically (it'll be winter) and mentally. It's going to be strange. I'm not worried about it, but I kind of wish I could go home every few weeks, just so that there was an adjustment. It helps that I can call home occasionally.
Feeling vomity. Not actually vomiting, but nauseous most of the day. Less than pleasant, especially when rickshawing. I haven't been eating anything different that I know of, so maybe it's just that everything is finally hitting me. Ick.
We found an even closer, cheaper internet place. Only about 50 cents and hour, and about a five minute walk. Kind of dirty, but acceptable. It's also right next to a chemist (drugstore) and stationary (office supply stuff), so it's really handy.
I'm getting much more comfortable walking around. There is still a lot of unpleasant staring, but it's more manageable and not as creepy. Now it's just annoying, but it doesn't get to me as much, so it's easier to ignore. It feels really nice to be comfortable though. Not complacent, just comfortable.
Time to go--I have to take a nap and then do some homework for tomorrow. I'm behind since I wasn't around to do any this morning or last night!
I don't know haw many people may have heard about this, but yesterday (the 13th) there were five bombings in New Delhi. I am safe, and everyone I know here is. We all got a little shaken up, because two of the bombs went off in a market that we regularly shop at and had even been out to dinner in the night before. They were low-intensity bombs, and the last I heard there was a total of 15 that had been killed, and around a hundred injured. That was last night anyway. Luckily most of the students on our program were in the same area, so we all gathered at one person's house to watch the news and spend the night so we weren't out rickshawing late at night in all the chaos. As luck would have it, our phones all stopped working that morning too, so everyone was going crazy trying to get in touch with the program directors and find out what we should do. Everybody's safe and sound, and tomorrow we have a big meeting at the program center to discuss future safety precautions and stuff. Apparently Storm-ji (academic director) has canceled classes for the next week, so I don't know what that means for the future of the program.
Katz and I got home around 11 this morning, and have spent most of the day with our family. It's been nice being around, since we don't normally see both Deepak and Deepika together because of their shifts at work. Yesterday we finally got to give them their homestay gifts, which was fun. We also went out to lunch with them and Dishant today at a really good Chinese food place. Lots of fun. Dishant has gotten much friendly with Katz & I, which is great. He's adorable.
I haven't been homesick, but I've been thinking a lot about home these last few days. I don't know why, but it's kind of strange. I think it's got to do with knowing that it is going to be completely different when I get back. Both physically (it'll be winter) and mentally. It's going to be strange. I'm not worried about it, but I kind of wish I could go home every few weeks, just so that there was an adjustment. It helps that I can call home occasionally.
Feeling vomity. Not actually vomiting, but nauseous most of the day. Less than pleasant, especially when rickshawing. I haven't been eating anything different that I know of, so maybe it's just that everything is finally hitting me. Ick.
We found an even closer, cheaper internet place. Only about 50 cents and hour, and about a five minute walk. Kind of dirty, but acceptable. It's also right next to a chemist (drugstore) and stationary (office supply stuff), so it's really handy.
I'm getting much more comfortable walking around. There is still a lot of unpleasant staring, but it's more manageable and not as creepy. Now it's just annoying, but it doesn't get to me as much, so it's easier to ignore. It feels really nice to be comfortable though. Not complacent, just comfortable.
Time to go--I have to take a nap and then do some homework for tomorrow. I'm behind since I wasn't around to do any this morning or last night!
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Good tiimes in India...
Enjoying life here...since I didn't go away this weekend I got to sleep in this morning--so necessary. It was very lovely. Last night a bunch of the girls and I went to see a dance performance at the India International Center. The dancer danced without stopping for at least an hour. No breaks for drink, rest, or anything. And it was a very active dance--my feet hurt just watching all the stopping. She never broke character either. It was pretty awesome.
After we left the concert we walked to Kahn Market and went to Chona's Rest-O-Bar (they call lounges rest-o-bars--it's kind of amusing) for drinks and dinner. It was quite lovely, and nice to just sit an relax. We were in a room by ourselves, so we didn't have to worry about making noise or being silly or being "slutty American girls" because we were out by ourselves. It was nice. I'm really glad I have a roommate, because it means I can go out semi-late at night and not have to worry about getting home.
For practica I am doing Madhubani painting. It's really cool, and I can't stop drawing since we started it. I'm not doing the actual stuff that you are supposed to do, since I don't know all the symbols yet, but it's fun to make up my own designs. Maybe if I can figure out how I'll try and post a picture of one. I need to figure out how to transfer my photos from camera to computer first though.
After we left the concert we walked to Kahn Market and went to Chona's Rest-O-Bar (they call lounges rest-o-bars--it's kind of amusing) for drinks and dinner. It was quite lovely, and nice to just sit an relax. We were in a room by ourselves, so we didn't have to worry about making noise or being silly or being "slutty American girls" because we were out by ourselves. It was nice. I'm really glad I have a roommate, because it means I can go out semi-late at night and not have to worry about getting home.
For practica I am doing Madhubani painting. It's really cool, and I can't stop drawing since we started it. I'm not doing the actual stuff that you are supposed to do, since I don't know all the symbols yet, but it's fun to make up my own designs. Maybe if I can figure out how I'll try and post a picture of one. I need to figure out how to transfer my photos from camera to computer first though.
Thursday, September 11, 2008
so, my mother has informed me that so far my blog entries seem rather negative. That was not intentional. I actually love it here. A lot. I suppose the reason for mentioning all the negative stuff (beggars, pollution, etc.) is that it is what stares you in the face when you get here and travel around. It really is a beautiful and amazing country though. The people on the program (the students from the states and the people here) are really great. My host family is wonderful, I just wish I could spend more time with them. And the clothing and colors are amazing.
Food is spicy. But we got kheer (Indian rice pudding) in Haridwar and it is basically the meaning of my existance. Why can't I eat it everyday for every meal?
So yeah, I do like it here. I can't quite believe that I'm going to be here for another few months. I keep thinking I'll be going home in a week or so.
Still not sick! The rest of the group is dropping like flies though, so it's only a matter of time! I can't wait!
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Finally found a decent computer lab! It's kind of dirty and small and dark and dank, but it only costs 40 rupees an hour, which converts to about a dollar. Really good, since this will end up being where I write my papers. And it's only about a 15 minute walk from my house, or a short rickshaw ride.
This past weekend was...interesting. It had some really great, wonderful parts, and some really nasty, awful parts. We left really early to go to Haridwar, a city on the mouth of the Ganges. Because it's the mouth, it is considered extremely holy, and is full of pilgrims and visitors and tourists. Because of all these people, it is also a center for all the beggars, cripples, and decrepit people from that area to come and beg and cheat everyone else. It is such a game of manipulation, and is really disgusting. I had a young, decent-looking girl come up to me, quickly dab paint on my forehead, and bless me. She did this without giving me a chance to say okay. Then she asked for money for blessing me. It was disgusting. Everything about it just was. So many people playing off of the fact that it is a holy place filled with people eager to wash away their sins and doing everything they can to get money off of you. The fact that we were a crowd of white kids didn't help.
We left Haridwar early on Sunday and took a (very sketchy) bus ride to Rishikesh, about an hour north. It's in the foothills of the Himalayas, and is (I think) the yoga capitol of India. I think it's also where the Beatles went. While it was still rather touristy--I've never seen so many European-looking hippy people--it was not overwhelmingly so, and was actually very calming. There are lots of ashrams and such where people have come from all over to meditate and relax. There was some begging, but not nearly as much. It was very nice to be able to stand in one spot for more than five minutes without a child pulling on your kamiz or a man with no legs tapping on your shoes. I enjoyed sitting at a cafe overlooking the mountains and river and just sketching pictures while having a sign-language conversation with a little Indian girl who wanted me to draw her pictures.
Then we left, only to fall into more manipulation. We missed our bus back to Haridwar by about 5 seconds, and had to take two rickshaws on the hour long drive back. Bad plan. We paid a little more than we should have, but we were comfortable in our two six-person rickshaws, divided in half. We got part way there when they pulled over, made us all get out, told us there was a police barricade ahead and that we'd all have to get into one 8-person rickshaw. Bullshit. Lots of difficulty translating, since only two people in our group are in intermediate Hindi, and they have difficulty with it too. We crammed all of our large backpacks and our 11 bodies into the van, which then was driven the rest of the way by a boy who looked to be about 12 years old. We paid 250 rupees instead of the 6o0 they asked, and proceeded to be followed around by the boy cussing us out loudly in Hindi and a crowd of people who were just there to watch. We made our train on time, but everyone felt pretty shitty about the whole thing. The fact that they so blatantly tried to dupe us, just because we were young white kids made everybody so angry. And yes, the boy will probably be beaten when he gets back without the expected amount of money, but we couldn't help that. We couldn't let them get away with it and continue to feed the system. It really works on your hope for humanity. This weekend was pretty trying in that sense...
But it was a decent weekend, and I am glad we did it. It felt really good to get out of Delhi for awhile, and breath ever-so-slightly cleaner air. The mountains were pretty, and it was nice to have some time with the group when we weren't studying or talking about class.
Some people are making plans to go on a trip again this weekend, but I don't think I will. I want to hang out with my host family some, since I don't usually get to see my host-mom (she works nights, so I only see her in the morning for breakfast). I think I'll do a little shopping, and maybe try and see some theater. I'll at least go see some awful bollywood film with my friends. Maybe explore Old Delhi. We'll see. I want to stay here though, and not spend quite as much money on traveling.
Time to go work on Hindi. It's coming along, but getting harder. Our host family speaks perfect English, so there isn't much incentive to practice it at home.
Oh, I'm also taking Madhubani painting as a practica, which is really cool. It's this neat style of really simple drawing that is extremely intricate--if that makes sense. It doesn't call for perfection, which is what makes it really nice. Lines aren't straight, circles aren't perfect, but it still looks amazing. I can't really explain it. Look it up online...it's beautiful.
Okay, actually going now. Please email or comment--I miss everyone!
This past weekend was...interesting. It had some really great, wonderful parts, and some really nasty, awful parts. We left really early to go to Haridwar, a city on the mouth of the Ganges. Because it's the mouth, it is considered extremely holy, and is full of pilgrims and visitors and tourists. Because of all these people, it is also a center for all the beggars, cripples, and decrepit people from that area to come and beg and cheat everyone else. It is such a game of manipulation, and is really disgusting. I had a young, decent-looking girl come up to me, quickly dab paint on my forehead, and bless me. She did this without giving me a chance to say okay. Then she asked for money for blessing me. It was disgusting. Everything about it just was. So many people playing off of the fact that it is a holy place filled with people eager to wash away their sins and doing everything they can to get money off of you. The fact that we were a crowd of white kids didn't help.
We left Haridwar early on Sunday and took a (very sketchy) bus ride to Rishikesh, about an hour north. It's in the foothills of the Himalayas, and is (I think) the yoga capitol of India. I think it's also where the Beatles went. While it was still rather touristy--I've never seen so many European-looking hippy people--it was not overwhelmingly so, and was actually very calming. There are lots of ashrams and such where people have come from all over to meditate and relax. There was some begging, but not nearly as much. It was very nice to be able to stand in one spot for more than five minutes without a child pulling on your kamiz or a man with no legs tapping on your shoes. I enjoyed sitting at a cafe overlooking the mountains and river and just sketching pictures while having a sign-language conversation with a little Indian girl who wanted me to draw her pictures.
Then we left, only to fall into more manipulation. We missed our bus back to Haridwar by about 5 seconds, and had to take two rickshaws on the hour long drive back. Bad plan. We paid a little more than we should have, but we were comfortable in our two six-person rickshaws, divided in half. We got part way there when they pulled over, made us all get out, told us there was a police barricade ahead and that we'd all have to get into one 8-person rickshaw. Bullshit. Lots of difficulty translating, since only two people in our group are in intermediate Hindi, and they have difficulty with it too. We crammed all of our large backpacks and our 11 bodies into the van, which then was driven the rest of the way by a boy who looked to be about 12 years old. We paid 250 rupees instead of the 6o0 they asked, and proceeded to be followed around by the boy cussing us out loudly in Hindi and a crowd of people who were just there to watch. We made our train on time, but everyone felt pretty shitty about the whole thing. The fact that they so blatantly tried to dupe us, just because we were young white kids made everybody so angry. And yes, the boy will probably be beaten when he gets back without the expected amount of money, but we couldn't help that. We couldn't let them get away with it and continue to feed the system. It really works on your hope for humanity. This weekend was pretty trying in that sense...
But it was a decent weekend, and I am glad we did it. It felt really good to get out of Delhi for awhile, and breath ever-so-slightly cleaner air. The mountains were pretty, and it was nice to have some time with the group when we weren't studying or talking about class.
Some people are making plans to go on a trip again this weekend, but I don't think I will. I want to hang out with my host family some, since I don't usually get to see my host-mom (she works nights, so I only see her in the morning for breakfast). I think I'll do a little shopping, and maybe try and see some theater. I'll at least go see some awful bollywood film with my friends. Maybe explore Old Delhi. We'll see. I want to stay here though, and not spend quite as much money on traveling.
Time to go work on Hindi. It's coming along, but getting harder. Our host family speaks perfect English, so there isn't much incentive to practice it at home.
Oh, I'm also taking Madhubani painting as a practica, which is really cool. It's this neat style of really simple drawing that is extremely intricate--if that makes sense. It doesn't call for perfection, which is what makes it really nice. Lines aren't straight, circles aren't perfect, but it still looks amazing. I can't really explain it. Look it up online...it's beautiful.
Okay, actually going now. Please email or comment--I miss everyone!
Friday, September 5, 2008
finally a real entry!
Namaste!
So, I finally have the chance to write a slightly longer message—about time right? I guess it hasn’t actually been that long, but since two days here feels like a month, two weeks feels like another life to me!
It has been going very well. The first week we stayed in an ashram that was very peaceful and quiet, and we all were together, so it really felt a bit like a summer camp. It was good for easing us into the whirlwind that is India. On our first full day we had a drop-of—they split us into groups of six or seven, took us to a neighborhood with a list of things to find out, and left us there. It was terrifying, but really good. It feels like such a long time ago already.
I’ve been going around on my own a decent amount, so I’m fairly comfortable with the system. Rickshaws are amazing. The most terrifying experience if you’ve never done it before, but once you get the hang of it it is rather fun. The driving is, by American standards, a nightmare, but there are surprisingly few accidents. That I’ve seen anyway. Nobody drives super fast, so even the accidents that do happen don’t seem too bad. Yesterday my rickshaw rear-ended another one, and I got bumped forward a bit, but we were already so close that we couldn’t have done anything too badly.
It can be a little eerie taking the rickshaws by yourself, but you just have to be very no-nonsense about it. The day before last my driver was asking me about America, which was fine, but then he asked me if I was married. I just glared at him, put on an “American Businesswoman” attitude, and looked away. He shut up real fast.
My homestay family is really great. I’m with the daughter and son-in-law of our dear sweet wonderful Hindi teacher, and their four-year-old son. They are in their thirties, so åit doesn’t really feel like I’m with parents, but they are so nice and really friendly. They’re also fairly “modern” people, so they don’t mind if we wear tanktops around the house or don’t use formal Hindi greetings. And our host-dad said they would take us to a nightclub if we wanted to go. He used to be a bartender, so they don’t have strong objections to alcohol, like a lot of the rest of the country does.
This weekend I am going with a group of people to a village at the mouth of the Ganges—I think it’s called Haridwar, but I’m not really sure. It’ll be nice to get out of the city for a bit. The air here is awful. I’ve been using my handkerchiefs and dupattas (an Indian scarf) to cover my mouth and nose whenever we go by rickshaw, since we spend so much time just sitting in stopped traffic inhaling the fumes. It’s icky.
I have to go now. I’ve got some studying to do, and some of my friends and I might go to Old Delhi this afternoon. So far we’ve only been in the southern end of the city. I can’t get over how huge this place is. And intense. I also can’t get over how used I am to parts of it. It doesn’t seem quite right that I’m already a pro at completely ignoring the beggar children that come and cry at the rickshaws (it’s all manipulating—they’re being pimped out by a ‘beggar king’ who usually drugs them and dresses them to look more pathetic), I don’t mind haggling with the rickshaw drivers, and I’ve already gotten much better at avoiding eye contact with any man or boy, since it will automatically be taken as a come-on. Having blue-eyes and white skin is a dream here, but if you do have it the attention it earns you is not particularly pleasant. It can be very disconcerting to walk down a street and have everyone (mostly men) blatantly stare at you in a very…inappropriate way. The staring is unavoidable, but we do everything we can to prevent anything else from happening. We are all dressed as “proper Indian girls”, behave politely, and have a handful of phrases memorized in Hindi to ward off any lasciviousness. So no worrying allowed from anyone ☺ If I’m not worrying, and I’m the closest to the threat, none of you are allowed to worry more!
But I really do need to go now. This has been quite long enough! And I’m impressed if anyone has read all of it. Way to go you! Bahot achha—Very good!
Love to everyone!
So, I finally have the chance to write a slightly longer message—about time right? I guess it hasn’t actually been that long, but since two days here feels like a month, two weeks feels like another life to me!
It has been going very well. The first week we stayed in an ashram that was very peaceful and quiet, and we all were together, so it really felt a bit like a summer camp. It was good for easing us into the whirlwind that is India. On our first full day we had a drop-of—they split us into groups of six or seven, took us to a neighborhood with a list of things to find out, and left us there. It was terrifying, but really good. It feels like such a long time ago already.
I’ve been going around on my own a decent amount, so I’m fairly comfortable with the system. Rickshaws are amazing. The most terrifying experience if you’ve never done it before, but once you get the hang of it it is rather fun. The driving is, by American standards, a nightmare, but there are surprisingly few accidents. That I’ve seen anyway. Nobody drives super fast, so even the accidents that do happen don’t seem too bad. Yesterday my rickshaw rear-ended another one, and I got bumped forward a bit, but we were already so close that we couldn’t have done anything too badly.
It can be a little eerie taking the rickshaws by yourself, but you just have to be very no-nonsense about it. The day before last my driver was asking me about America, which was fine, but then he asked me if I was married. I just glared at him, put on an “American Businesswoman” attitude, and looked away. He shut up real fast.
My homestay family is really great. I’m with the daughter and son-in-law of our dear sweet wonderful Hindi teacher, and their four-year-old son. They are in their thirties, so åit doesn’t really feel like I’m with parents, but they are so nice and really friendly. They’re also fairly “modern” people, so they don’t mind if we wear tanktops around the house or don’t use formal Hindi greetings. And our host-dad said they would take us to a nightclub if we wanted to go. He used to be a bartender, so they don’t have strong objections to alcohol, like a lot of the rest of the country does.
This weekend I am going with a group of people to a village at the mouth of the Ganges—I think it’s called Haridwar, but I’m not really sure. It’ll be nice to get out of the city for a bit. The air here is awful. I’ve been using my handkerchiefs and dupattas (an Indian scarf) to cover my mouth and nose whenever we go by rickshaw, since we spend so much time just sitting in stopped traffic inhaling the fumes. It’s icky.
I have to go now. I’ve got some studying to do, and some of my friends and I might go to Old Delhi this afternoon. So far we’ve only been in the southern end of the city. I can’t get over how huge this place is. And intense. I also can’t get over how used I am to parts of it. It doesn’t seem quite right that I’m already a pro at completely ignoring the beggar children that come and cry at the rickshaws (it’s all manipulating—they’re being pimped out by a ‘beggar king’ who usually drugs them and dresses them to look more pathetic), I don’t mind haggling with the rickshaw drivers, and I’ve already gotten much better at avoiding eye contact with any man or boy, since it will automatically be taken as a come-on. Having blue-eyes and white skin is a dream here, but if you do have it the attention it earns you is not particularly pleasant. It can be very disconcerting to walk down a street and have everyone (mostly men) blatantly stare at you in a very…inappropriate way. The staring is unavoidable, but we do everything we can to prevent anything else from happening. We are all dressed as “proper Indian girls”, behave politely, and have a handful of phrases memorized in Hindi to ward off any lasciviousness. So no worrying allowed from anyone ☺ If I’m not worrying, and I’m the closest to the threat, none of you are allowed to worry more!
But I really do need to go now. This has been quite long enough! And I’m impressed if anyone has read all of it. Way to go you! Bahot achha—Very good!
Love to everyone!
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
hey everyone, just letting y'all know that I am still alive. I only have a few minutes at the school computer before we have a sitar workshop...
Everything is wonderful. I haven't gotten sick yet, although Delhi Belly is a constant threat. I'm a pro at bucket showers--they're actually quite soothing. I'm glad I have short hair though!
Hindi is coming along decently. Sentances and words are okay, we'll see what happens when we get to grammar though!
Okay, have to run. I just found a cheap internet place near my homestay house, so hopefully I'll be able to get on soon and actually write a real entry!
Love to everyone!
Everything is wonderful. I haven't gotten sick yet, although Delhi Belly is a constant threat. I'm a pro at bucket showers--they're actually quite soothing. I'm glad I have short hair though!
Hindi is coming along decently. Sentances and words are okay, we'll see what happens when we get to grammar though!
Okay, have to run. I just found a cheap internet place near my homestay house, so hopefully I'll be able to get on soon and actually write a real entry!
Love to everyone!
Friday, August 22, 2008
Two days left!!!!!!!!
Oh my goodness. How did I get here? Considering that I've been working towards this for almost a year, it's really hard to believe I am three days away from being in India.
Just a quick update: I'm packing up my things today--yikes! Everything has been spread out on our guest bed for the last month or so, and slowly being added to. It is a lot of stuff, but considering that I'm gone for 3 1/2 months, it's pretty minimal. What takes up the most space are things like four bottles of contact lens solution, since supposedly you can't get it over there. Not a big deal, but kind of a pain. I would like to have less stuff, since I know I'm going to bringing so much back :-)
I started the malaria medicine--no bad dreams yet! *fingers crossed*
I decided to bring along colored pencils and a small sketchbook. I've never been much of an artist, and I still expect to take more photographs than drawings, but it could be nice. Maybe I'll start a new hobby. They don't take up much extra space, and I don't mind leaving them in India if I don't use them.
Regarding entries--I really have no idea how often I'll be able to get to a computer. Even if I do get to a computer, I'm probably going to need that time for research & paper-writing. I probably won't have access for at least a week, possibly more. I will definitely try to keep up the entries, but chances are they will be either A) very far apart but long, or B) regular, but really short. No promises with either. Just don't think that I've forgotten it--it's only because of convenience!
Probably no post tomorrow. Next time you read this, it will be posted from India!
AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
Just a quick update: I'm packing up my things today--yikes! Everything has been spread out on our guest bed for the last month or so, and slowly being added to. It is a lot of stuff, but considering that I'm gone for 3 1/2 months, it's pretty minimal. What takes up the most space are things like four bottles of contact lens solution, since supposedly you can't get it over there. Not a big deal, but kind of a pain. I would like to have less stuff, since I know I'm going to bringing so much back :-)
I started the malaria medicine--no bad dreams yet! *fingers crossed*
I decided to bring along colored pencils and a small sketchbook. I've never been much of an artist, and I still expect to take more photographs than drawings, but it could be nice. Maybe I'll start a new hobby. They don't take up much extra space, and I don't mind leaving them in India if I don't use them.
Regarding entries--I really have no idea how often I'll be able to get to a computer. Even if I do get to a computer, I'm probably going to need that time for research & paper-writing. I probably won't have access for at least a week, possibly more. I will definitely try to keep up the entries, but chances are they will be either A) very far apart but long, or B) regular, but really short. No promises with either. Just don't think that I've forgotten it--it's only because of convenience!
Probably no post tomorrow. Next time you read this, it will be posted from India!
AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
Friday, August 8, 2008
Well, things are moving along quickly. I leave two weeks from Sunday! I got my international flight tickets in the mail, and I have a seat reserved from Dulles to JFK. I'm leaving at 5 AM on Sunday morning, and am going to end up sitting in JFK for 6 hours, but it'll be OK. Not wonderful, but I'll be all hyped up anyway. And I'll bring a book. I don't know exactly how long the flight to India will be, but between 15-17 hours probably, with a stop-over in Paris. Hard to believe I'm leaving so soon.
I have my visa, credit card, and am a phone call away from getting my cell phone stuff figured out. Muhlenberg requires all study abroad students to have a phone, so while I would much rather not have to worry about it, I still have to get one. Perhaps I will be glad about it later, but right now it's just another thing to worry about.
Almost finished with one essay, and I'm done with the book I needed to read for the second one. I haven't looked at my alphabet for awhile, but I've pretty much got it down. Almost all my shopping is done, and when I practiced packing it all, it actually looked like I might have a little extra room to spare! Exciting since I only have two small bags I'm taking.
I've been doing lots of reading about Delhi and India in an attempt to know everything I can. Currently I'm reading a book called, "Holy Cow", by an Australian journalist. It's very interesting, because she starts out really not liking India, so this way I can be prepared for some negative things too.
I've been in touch with a few people on the trip, but the list hasn't officially been released yet. It's pretty exciting. All I know is that everyone is from the US (or at least has dual-citizenship), and that there are 19 students going. We are spending our first week--orientation--at an ashram in Delhi, where they have yoga in the mornings and meditation in the evenings, and we are welcome to help with classes at their school.
That's all for now--I must get back to my reading!
I have my visa, credit card, and am a phone call away from getting my cell phone stuff figured out. Muhlenberg requires all study abroad students to have a phone, so while I would much rather not have to worry about it, I still have to get one. Perhaps I will be glad about it later, but right now it's just another thing to worry about.
Almost finished with one essay, and I'm done with the book I needed to read for the second one. I haven't looked at my alphabet for awhile, but I've pretty much got it down. Almost all my shopping is done, and when I practiced packing it all, it actually looked like I might have a little extra room to spare! Exciting since I only have two small bags I'm taking.
I've been doing lots of reading about Delhi and India in an attempt to know everything I can. Currently I'm reading a book called, "Holy Cow", by an Australian journalist. It's very interesting, because she starts out really not liking India, so this way I can be prepared for some negative things too.
I've been in touch with a few people on the trip, but the list hasn't officially been released yet. It's pretty exciting. All I know is that everyone is from the US (or at least has dual-citizenship), and that there are 19 students going. We are spending our first week--orientation--at an ashram in Delhi, where they have yoga in the mornings and meditation in the evenings, and we are welcome to help with classes at their school.
That's all for now--I must get back to my reading!
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
First Entry!
Hello All!
So, this is my first post to my new (and first) blog. Why am I starting a blog? On August 24 I leave for a roughly 3 1/2 month trip to New Delhi, India. I am studying abroad through the SIT (School for International Training) program, India: Arts & Culture. It is going to involve Hindi lessons every morning and afternoons full of seminars on various aspects of, um, art and culture. Theater, music, painting, religion, textiles, pottery, architecture--lots of things. I will be staying in a mix of places, from home stays to dorms to hostels. I am not taking my laptop, but will have access to school computers and numerous Internet cafes. While I make no promises, I hope to be able to post often enough to keep everyone updated on what's going on. Lots of people have asked for email updates, but I think this will be a lot easier.
I don't leave for about a month yet, but I wanted to get this started now--the things to do are already piling up and I didn't want to have to worry about setting this up right before leaving. Plus the prep for the trip is a pretty big part of it too. I probably won't post too regularly just yet, but keep checking if you have any interest.
I'm currently working my way through several books about Delhi & India in an attempt to know as much as I can before leaving. I have memorized almost all of the Devanagari script in my first steps to learning Hindi. It is a beautiful alphabet. Tomorrow I will be sending in my visa application. Monday I head to a travel clinic for typhoid and flu shots. We already picked up my Malaria pills!
Packing has only just started. I'm only taking a few small bags, so this is rather stressful. I don't mind not taking a lot of clothes, but it just feels like there won't be enough space. I'd like to avoid suitcases and just have a large backpack and a small duffel carry-on, but I'm not sure how that will work. Luckily I can buy a lot of things over there.
Time to go. I'll post again when something interesting and India-related comes up!
So, this is my first post to my new (and first) blog. Why am I starting a blog? On August 24 I leave for a roughly 3 1/2 month trip to New Delhi, India. I am studying abroad through the SIT (School for International Training) program, India: Arts & Culture. It is going to involve Hindi lessons every morning and afternoons full of seminars on various aspects of, um, art and culture. Theater, music, painting, religion, textiles, pottery, architecture--lots of things. I will be staying in a mix of places, from home stays to dorms to hostels. I am not taking my laptop, but will have access to school computers and numerous Internet cafes. While I make no promises, I hope to be able to post often enough to keep everyone updated on what's going on. Lots of people have asked for email updates, but I think this will be a lot easier.
I don't leave for about a month yet, but I wanted to get this started now--the things to do are already piling up and I didn't want to have to worry about setting this up right before leaving. Plus the prep for the trip is a pretty big part of it too. I probably won't post too regularly just yet, but keep checking if you have any interest.
I'm currently working my way through several books about Delhi & India in an attempt to know as much as I can before leaving. I have memorized almost all of the Devanagari script in my first steps to learning Hindi. It is a beautiful alphabet. Tomorrow I will be sending in my visa application. Monday I head to a travel clinic for typhoid and flu shots. We already picked up my Malaria pills!
Packing has only just started. I'm only taking a few small bags, so this is rather stressful. I don't mind not taking a lot of clothes, but it just feels like there won't be enough space. I'd like to avoid suitcases and just have a large backpack and a small duffel carry-on, but I'm not sure how that will work. Luckily I can buy a lot of things over there.
Time to go. I'll post again when something interesting and India-related comes up!
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